Look What"s growing in the garden

THE FIRST STEP IS PLANNING

WE SUGGEST YOU BEGIN BY DOING RESEARCH, LOOKING AT PHOTOGRAPHS, READING BOOKS ON THE SUBJECT OR BY VIEWING EXISTING GARDEN RAILROADS.

FREE VIDEO OFFER

WE HAVE PRODUCED A VIDEO, "LOOK WHAT'S GROWING IN THE GARDEN", WHICH IS AN EXCELLENT PLACE TO START. IT WILL ANSWER MOST OF YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT HOW TO PLAN AND BUILD YOUR RAILROAD. THE VIDEO IS $24.95, BUT WE HAVE A SPECIAL OFFER TO HELP GET YOU STARTED. THE VIDEO IS FREE IF YOU PURCHASE $250.OO OR MORE OF ANY LARGE SCALE TRAINS, TRACK, OR ACCESSORIES FROM H&R TRAINS. THAT MEANS THAT EVEN A STARTER SET WILL GET YOU THE VIDEO FREE JUST FOR THE ASKING

YOU MAY WANT TO PLAN YOUR RAILROAD SO THAT IT FITS IN WELL WITH YOUR EXISTING GARDEN, OR PLAN TO MAKE THE NECESSARY MODIFICATIONS THAT WILL ALLOW FOR MINIMUM AMOUNT OF CHANGE. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO HAVE HEALTHY AND MATURE PLANTS WITHOUT HAVING TO START FROM SCRATCH.

YOU WILL CERTAINLY HAVE MORE FLEXIBILITY IF YOU START FROM SCRATCH, BUT IT WILL TAKE SOME TIME FOR THE NEW PLANTS TO ESTABLISH THEMSELVES.

DESIGN ELEMENTS

TRACK LAYOUT CERTAINLY IS ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS YOU SHOULD CONSIDER WHEN DESIGNING YOUR LAYOUT. THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO DESIGN A LAYOUT, BUT THE FOUR MOST COMMON ARE AS FOLLOWS:

FIRST YOU COULD LAY THE TRACK OUT ON THE GROUND TO SEE HOW IT WILL FIT IN THE AREA YOU HAVE CHOSEN FOR YOUR RAILROAD. AFTER YOU ARE SATISFIED THAT YOU HAVE ARRIVED AT YOUR FINAL TRACK CONFIGURATION, YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE A SKETCH OF THE LAYOUT INDICATING THE LOCATION AND PART NUMBERS OF EACH PIECE THE WAY YOU HAVE LAiD IT OUT.

SECOND YOU CAN USE A PUBLISHED TRACK PLAN FROM A BOOK SUCH AS THE "LGB TRACK PLANNING AND TECHNICAL GUIDE". THIS SIMPLIFIES THE PROCESS BECAUSE THESE PLANS HAVE ALREADY DONE ALL THE DESIGNING FOR YOU. THEY USUALLY INCLUDE ELECTRICAL DIAGRAMS AND OTHER CONSIDERATIONS THAT WILL NORMALLY SAVE YOU A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT OF TIME.

THIRD USE A TRACK TEMPLATE AND DRAW YOUR LAYOUT PIECE BY PIECE. THIS IS VERY TIME CONSUMING, BUT IT ALLOWS YOU TO HAVE A LOT OF FLEXIBILITY IN YOUR DESIGN.

FOURTH THE HI-TECH METHOD OF USING A COMPUTER AND A DESIGN SOFTWARE SUCH AS PC-RAIL, RR TRACK, OR ONE OF THE OTHER FINE PROGRAMS WILL ALLOW YOU TO EXPLORE MANY POSSIBILITIES IN A RELATIVELY SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.

THE NEXT MOST IMPORTANT THING IN THE DESIGN PROCESS IS THE GROUND ELEVATION OR GRADE. IT IS DIFFICULT FOR MOST MODEL RAILROAD LOCOMOTIVES TO CLIMB UP HILLS. EVEN THE REAL RAILROADS HAVE GREAT DIFFICULTY. WHEELS TEND TO SLIP AND MOTORS TEND TO OVERHEAT PARTICULARLY ON LONG TRAINS. FOR THIS REASON IT WOULD BE RARE TO FIND A GARDEN RAILROAD WITH MORE THAN A 3% GRADE.

ALTHOUGH 3% GRADES ARE POSSIBLE, IT WOULD BE BEST TO RESTRICT THE MAXIMUM GRADE TO 2% FOR THE MOST TROUBLE FREE OPERATION. A 2% GRADE WOULD BE EQUAL TO A TWO INCH RISE OVER ONE HUNDRED INCHES OF FORWARD MOVEMENT, OR TWO FEET OF RISE FOR EVERY ONE HUNDRED FEET OF FORWARD TRAVEL.

IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO CUT AWAY SOIL IN SOME AREAS AND FILL OTHER AREAS, MUCH THE SAME WAY THE REAL RAILROADS DO TO KEEP THE GRADE TO A MINIMUM. THERE ARE SEVERAL WAYS TO CHECK THE GRADE, INCLUDING A SURVEYOR'S TRANSIT, A WATER LEVEL, OR MAYBE EVEN A PIECE OF STRING AND SOME KIND OF LEVEL.

ANOTHER CONSIDERATION IS TRACK SPACING. WHEN TWO TRACKS RUN PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER YOU WILL NEED A MINIMUM SPACING OF 165MM OR (6 1/2") ON STRAIGHT SECTIONS, AND 185MM OR (7 1/4") FOR CURVED SECTIONS.

YOU SHOULD ALSO AVOID REVERSE CURVES. WHEN THE TRACK CURVES BACK AND FORTH YOU NEED TO INCLUDE A PIECE OF STRAIGHT TRACK BETWEEN THE CURVES AT LEAST AS LONG AS THE LONGEST LOCOMOTIVE OR ROLLING STOCK THAT YOU PLAN TO RUN ON THE RAILROAD. THIS WILL HELP TO PREVENT DERAILMENTS AND ALLOW THE TRAINS TO RUN MUCH MORE SMOOTHLY.

CURVED TRACK GEOMETRY.

TRACK IS AVAILABLE FROM SEVERAL MANUFACTURERS IN THREE STANDARD RADIUSES:

R1 - SMALL RADIUS 30 DEGREE CURVE - 12 PIECES MAKE A CIRCLE - 24" RADIUS, OR 48" DIAMETER CIRCLE FROM THE CENTERLINE OF THE TRACK.

R2 - MEDIUM RADIUS 30 DEGREE CURVE - 12 PIECES MAKE A CIRCLE - 2' 6" RADIUS, OR A 5 FOOT DIAMETER CIRCLE FROM THE CENTERLINE OF THE TRACK.

R3 - LARGE RADIUS 22.5 DEGREE CURVE - 16 PIECES MAKE A CIRCLE - 3' 10" RADIUS, OR 7' 8" DIAMETER CIRCLE FROM THE CENTERLINE OF THE TRACK.

SOME MANUFACTURERS HAVE EVEN LARGER RADIUS SECTIONAL TRACK. ARISTO-CRAFT HAS BOTH A 5FT. AND A 10FT. RADIUS BRASS TRACK, AND H&R TRAINS HAS 10 DIFFERENT RADII AVAILABLE IN STAINLESS STEEL. FLEX TRACK IS ALSO AN OPTION. LGB HAS FLEX TRACK IN 5FT. LENGTHS, AND H&R TRAINS STAINLESS IS AVAILABLE IN 4FT., 5FT., AND 10FT. LENGTHS. IT IS GENERALLY BEST TO USE THE LARGEST RADIUS THAT WILL FIT IN THE SPACE THAT YOU HAVE. IT WILL LOOK BETTER AND IT WILL RUN MORE SMOOTHLY AND BE TROUBLE FREE.

TRACK ALSO COMES IN A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS SUCH AS STAINLESS STEEL, BRASS, NICKEL SILVER, STEEL, AND ALUMINUM. BRASS IS PROBABLY THE MOST POPULAR, AND THE LEAST EXPENSIVE, HOWEVER IT REQUIRES A HIGH DEGREE OF MAINTENANCE.

ALTHOUGH STAINLESS STEEL TRACK IS MORE EXPENSIVE, IT REALLY IS THE BEST CHOICE FOR OUTDOORS. STAINLESS TRACK WILL ALLOW YOU TO SPEND MORE TIME ENJOYING YOUR GARDEN RAILROAD. IT REQUIRES VERY LITTLE MAINTENANCE AND IT LOOKS GREAT IN THE GARDEN AS WELL.

LAYING TRACK

IN FLORIDA WE DO NOT HAVE MANY OF THE CONSTRAINTS THAT OUR NORTHERN NEIGHBORS HAVE TO CONTEND WITH. THERE IS A MINIMAL CONCERN ABOUT THE GROUND FREEZING IN WINTER OR THE TRACK BEING COVERED BY SNOW. HOWEVER, WE DO NEED TO CONSIDER GOOD DRAINAGE.

IN THE SOUTH WHERE THERE IS LITTLE CHANCE OF THE GROUND FREEZING, THE TRACK CAN BE LAID DIRECTLY ON THE GROUND OR ANY NUMBER OF OTHER WAYS DEPENDING ON YOUR SITUATION. YOU COULD, FOR INSTANCE, LAY IT ON TOP OF ROOFING SHINGLES AND BALLAST AROUND THE TRACK. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO CONSIDER LAYING YOUR TRACK ON 2"X6" PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER.

COLDER CLIMATES MAY REQUIRE YOU TO USE 2"X6" PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER, A CONCRETE ROADBED, OR EVEN DIG A CHANNEL IN THE GROUND THAT YOU FILL WITH BALLAST. IF SNOW IS A PROBLEM THE TRACK COULD BE ELEVATED ON 2"X6" PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER ON 4X4 POSTS AT AN APPROPRIATE HEIGHT FOR YOUR AREA.

OUR EXPERIENCE HAS SHOWN THAT 2"X6" PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER MAY BE THE BEST METHOD IN MOST ALL LOCATIONS. IT ALLOWS YOU TO SECURE THE TRACK TO A SOLID SURFACE WHICH IN ESSENCE FLOATS ON THE GROUND.

THIS METHOD REDUCES TRACK MAINTENANCE SIGNIFICANTLY. IF THERE IS HEAVING DURING THE WINTER IT IS EASY TO UNDERCUT THE ROADBED WITH A SHOVEL AND IN THE SPRING, TO REMOVE ANY DEVELOPING HILLS. THIS CAN BE DONE WITHOUT THE NEED TO REMOVE THE TRACK. IT IS ALSO EASIER TO BACK FILL ANY AREA THAT MIGHT NEED IT DUE TO WASH OUTS OR OTHER EROSION.

THE WOOD TENDS TO PROTECT THE TRACK FROM DAMAGE DUE TO ANIMALS SUCH AS DEER, ELK, MOOSE, OR DOMESTIC ANIMALS LIKE HORSES OR CATTLE. IT CAN ALSO HELP PROTECT IT FROM HUMAN DAMAGE IF THE TRACK IS STEPPED ON OR RUN OVER BY THE RIDING LAWN MOWER.

THERE ARE MANY TYPES OF PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER, BUT YOU SHOULD USE A GRADE THAT IS DESIGNED FOR USE ON THE GROUND OR BELOW GRADE LEVEL.

THE BEST PROCEDURE FOR USING 2"X6" PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER IS TO USE SECTIONS FIVE FEET LONG OR SHORTER AS NECESSARY ON CURVES. USE A ONE FOOT SECTION OF 2"X6" LUMBER BENEATH EACH JOINT AND FASTEN THEM TOGETHER WITH 2 1/2" # 10 STAINLESS STEEL OR GALVINIZED DECK SCREWS.

TRY TO KEEP THE GRAIN IN THE WOOD ALL GOING THE SAME DIRECTION. THAT IS TO SAY, KEEP THE CROWN 0F THE GRAIN ALL FACING UP OR DOWN BUT NOT MIXED.

YOU SHOULD CLAMP THE JOINT TOGETHER TO PREVENT THE BOARDS FROM SEPARATING FROM EACH OTHER AS YOU DRIVE THE SCREWS. PUT FIVE SCREWS ON EACH SIDE OF THE JOINT IN A DIAMOND PATTERN. (FOUR SCREWS IN A SQUARE PATTERN AND ONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SQUARE). THIS WILL GIVE THE JOINT A VERY STRONG BOND AND HELP TO KEEP WARPING TO A MINIMUM.

YOU CAN FASTEN THE TRACK DOWN TO THE ROADBED WITH 7/8" #4 OR #6 PAN HEAD STAINLESS STEEL OR GALVINIZED SCREWS. ONLY DRIVE THE SCREWS UNTIL THEY JUST BARLEY TOUCH THE TOP OF THE TIES. IF YOU OVER DRIVE THEM IT WILL CAUSE STRESS TO THE PLASTIC, WHICH OVER TIME COULD CAUSE THE PLASTIC TO CRACK. THIS IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT IN AREAS OF EXTREME EXPOSURE TO THE SUN.

DRIVING THE SCREWS DOWN TOO FAR COULD ALSO CHANGE THE GAUGE OF THE TRACK, WHICH OVER TIME WILL CAUSE EXCESSIVE WHEEL WEAR AND OR WEAR TO THE TRACK ITSELF. THIS COULD ALSO LEAD TO DERAILMENTS IN EXTREME CASES.

IF YOU ARE USING BRASS TRACK IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT EACH RAIL JOINT BE COVERED WITH ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE GREASE SUCH AS LGB # 5101. AFTER THE RAILS HAVE BEEN JOINED, REMOVE ANY EXCESS GREASE. THIS GREASE HELPS TO PREVENT WATER FROM OXIDIZING THE RAILS INSIDE THE RAIL JOINERS, CAUSING A LOSS IN THE ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVITY.

THE ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVE GREASE IS ONLY A TEMPORARY SOLUTION. YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO CONSIDER SOLDERING A JUMPER WIRE AROUND EACH RAIL JOINT. THIS WILL HELP TO MINIMIZE THE EFFECTS OF OXIDATION THAT TEND TO BUILD UP INSIDE THE RAIL JOINERS AFTER A PERIOD OF TIME. THERE ARE SEVERAL WAYS OF DOING THIS, SO YOU WILL PROBABLY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A BIT AND USE WHATEVER METHOD WORKS BEST FOR YOU.

YOU WILL NEED A FAIRLY LARGE SOLDERING IRON IN ORDER TO GET AS MUCH HEAT TO THE RAIL AS YOU CAN QUICKLY WITHOUT MELTING THE PLASTIC TIES.

ONE METHOD THAT WORKS FAIRLY WELL IS TO DRILL A SMALL HOLE THROUGH THE SIDE OF THE RAIL, STARTING ON THE OUTSIDE, AND DRILLING DOWN TOWARDS THE INSIDE AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE. TIN THE RAIL AROUND THE HOLES AND BOTH ENDS OF YOUR JUMPER WIRE AND THEN INSERT THE WIRE IN THE HOLES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE RAIL JOINT WHILE APPLYING HEAT TO THE RAIL AS YOU INSERT THE WIRE.

AN ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF ASSURING GOOD CONDUCTIVITY ACROSS THE JOINTS IS TO USE RAIL CLAMPS. RAIL CLAMPS ARE MADE OF SEVERAL MATERIALS AND COME IN MANY STYLES FROM DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS. THERE ARE TWO MAIN TYPES: THOSE THAT FASTEN DIRECTLY TO THE RAILS AND THOSE THAT FASTEN OVER THE RAIL JOINERS.

IF YOU ARE USING STAINLESS STEEL TRACK FROM H&R TRAINS, RAIL CLAMPS OR JUMPER WIRES ARE NOT NECESSARY. THIS IS DUE TO OUR SPECIAL PATENTED RAIL JOINERS THAT KEEP A POSITIVE PRESSURE ON THE RAILS REGARDLESS OF HOW MANY TIMES THEY HAVE BEEN SEPARATED AND RE-ASSEMBLED.

ANOTHER IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION IS TO HAVE WIRES THAT PROVIDE POWER TO THE RAILS IN MORE THAN ONE LOCATION. A GOOD RULE TO FOLLOW WOULD BE TO HAVE ONE SET OF WIRES FOR EVERY TWENTY FIVE TO THIRTY FEET OF TRACK. YOU MAY GET BY WITH LESS, BUT YOUR RAILROAD WILL RUN LONGER AND MORE SMOOTHLY IF YOU DO THIS DURING YOUR INSTALLATION. A GOOD WAY TO ACCOMPLISH THIS IS TO USE A LARGE SET OF BUS WIRES RUNNING PARALLEL TO THE TRACK AND USE SMALLER JUMPER WIRES TO THE TERMINAL TRACK SECTIONS EVERY 25 TO 30 FEET.

ONCE THE TRACK IS DOWN YOU WILL PROBABLY WANT TO BALLAST THE TRACK WITH SOME SORT OF CRUSHED ROCK. THIS WORKS MUCH BETTER THAN RIVER GRAVEL BECAUSE THE IRREGULAR SHAPE OF THE CRUSHED ROCKS TEND TO INTERLOCK WITH EACH OTHER AND PREVENT IT FROM WASHING AWAY IN A HEAVY RAIN.

YOU WILL NEED A PIECE OF WOOD WITH TWO NOTCHES FOR THE RAILS AND A FAIRLY STIFF FOUR-INCH PAINTBRUSH BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO BALLAST THE TRACK.

POUR THE BALLAST DIRECTLY ON THE TRACK IN THE AREA TO BE BALLASTED. NEXT RUN THE PIECE OF WOOD BACK AND FORTH ALONG THE RAILS TO HELP WORK THE BALLAST IN BETWEEN THE TIES. YOU CAN ALSO USE THE PIECE OF WOOD TO HELP SLOPE THE BALLAST AWAY FROM THE TIES ALONG THE SIDE OF THE TRACKS. FINISH REMOVING EXCESS BALLAST FROM BETWEEN THE RAILS WITH THE PAINT BRUSH.

ASSORTED TOOLS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT FOR BUILDING YOUR GARDEN RAILROAD

TRACK TEMPLATE

COMPUTER DESIGN SOFTWARE

PRE EXISTING TRACK PLANS

LEVEL AND STRING

A TRANSIT

YARD TOOLS INCLUDING A SHOVEL, RAKE, PICK AX, SLEDGE HAMMER, WHEEL BARROW

GARDEN HOSE

WOODEN STAKES

BLACK TOPSOIL, OR FILL DIRT

ROOFING SHINGLES PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER OR OTHER ROADBED MATERIALS.

TRACK AND TURNOUTS

BALLAST - (CRUSHED GRANITE WORKS BEST)

PIECE OF WOOD TO SPREAD BALLAST

4" PAINT BRUSH FOR BALLAST

ELECTRICAL WIRE, AND THE APPROPRIATE HAND TOOLS

TERMINAL HOOK UP WIRE

INSULATED RAIL JOINERS

ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVE GREASE

LGB #5175 AND # 5180 CONTROL BOXES

TRANSFORMER

LGB #5012 OUTDOOR CONTROLLER

DON'T FORGET THE TRAIN

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE

AFTER YOUR RAILROAD IS FINISHED YOU SHOULD ESTABLISH A REGULAR SCHEDULE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE IN ORDER TO KEEP MAJOR UNFORESEEN REPAIRS TO A MINIMUM. YOU WILL NEED TO OVERCOME SOME OF THE SAME PROBLEMS AS A REAL RAILROAD HAS. A WELL-MAINTAINED RAILROAD WILL LOOK BETTER, AND IT IS ALSO A LOT MORE FUN TO RUN.

PLANTS SHOULD BE ON A REGULAR SCHEDULE FOR WATERING. THEY WILL USE LESS WATER THAN IF YOU WATER ONLY OCCASIONALLY. CYPRESS MULCH OR PINE BARK IN AREAS WHERE THERE ARE NO PLANTS WILL ALSO HELP THE GROUND RETAIN THE MOISTURE LONGER

MAINTAINING THE GARDEN REQUIRES ABOUT 15 MINUTES OF WATER EACH DAY DURING THE DRY SEASON, AND ABOUT THE SAME AMOUNT FOR THOSE DAYS THAT IT DOES NOT RAIN DURING THE RAINY SEASON.

WEEDING IS PROBABLY THE NEXT MOST IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE TASK. ROUNDUP CAN BE USED ON THE ROADBED AROUND THE BALLAST TO HELP KEEP THE RIGHT OF WAY CLEAR, BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW ANY OVER SPRAY TO GET ON ANY PLANTS THAT YOU WANT TO KEEP.

MOST OF THE WEEDING WILL NEED TO BE DONE BY HAND. THIS IS HARD WORK AND VERY TIME CONSUMING. IF YOU DO A LITTLE BIT EACH DAY OR SO WHILE THE TRAIN IS RUNNING YOU WILL BE ABLE TO KEEP YOUR RAILROAD LOOKING PRETTY GOOD

PRUNING AND TRIMMING OF FOLIAGE ALONG THE RIGHT OF WAY PLAYS A VERY IMPORTANT PART IN KEEPING THE TRAINS FROM BEING DERAILED. ANOTHER FACTOR IS DEBRIS THAT HAS FALLEN ON THE TRACK. YOU CAN MAKE A WALK AROUND INSPECTION JUST BEFORE YOU RUN TRAINS, OR A TRICK THAT WORKS QUIT WELL IS TO SET A SMALL LOCOMOTIVE ON THE TRACK AND LET IT RUN. THE LOCOMOTIVE WILL FIND ANY DEBRIS QUICKLY AND BE DERAILED. JUST GO TO THAT LOCATION AND REMOVE THE DEBRIS THAT CAUSED THE DERAILMENT, AND SEND THE LOCOMOTIVE ON ITS WAY AGAIN. THIS MAY NOT CLEAR THE TRACKS COMPLETELY, BUT IT WILL ALLOW YOU TO GET TRAINS RUNNING FAIRLY QUICKLY.

MAINTAINING THE BALLAST ALONG THE TRACK IS ALMOST A CONTINUOUS PROCESS. IF YOUR RAILROAD WAS PLANNED WITH GOOD DRAINAGE IN MIND HOWEVER, YOU MAY BE FORTUNATE ENOUGH NOT TO HAVE TO BALLAST AS OFTEN. THE MAINTENANCE IS DONE MUCH IN THE SAME WAY THAT YOU DID WHEN BUILDING THE RAILROAD.

TRACK SHOULD BE CLEANED BEFORE EACH OPERATING SESSION, OR WHENEVER THE PERFORMANCE OF THE LOCOMOTIVES SEEMS TO BE SLUGGISH OR ERRATIC. REGARDLESS OF WHAT KIND OF METAL YOUR TRACK IS MADE OF, IT WILL NEED TO BE CLEANED OCASIONALLY.

BRASS, ALUMINUM, AND NICKEL SILVER TRACK WILL OXIDIZE, WHICH WILL PREVENT THE WHEELS OF YOUR LOCOMOTIVE FROM GETTING GOOD ELECTRICAL CONTACT. THE ONLY EXCEPTION TO THIS IS STAINLESS STEEL TRACK. STAINLESS STEEL WILL NOT OXIDIZE BUT IT CAN ACCUMULATE INDUSTRIAL POLLUTANTS AND DIRT. THESE CAN EASILY BE REMOVED WITH SMOKE FLUID, GOO GONE, OR ALCOHOL. DO NOT USE ANY ABRASIVE CLEANING BLOCKS ON STAINLESS STEEL RAIL.

YOU CAN USE AN ABRASIVE BLOCK SUCH AS A BRIGHT BOY, OR AN LGB #5004 TRACK CLEANING BLOCK ON BRASS, ALUMINUM OR NICKEL SILVER. YOU COULD ALSO USE ONE OF THE MANY LIQUID TRACK CLEANERS, HOWEVER THE CLEANING BLOCK WORKS BEST. LGB DESIGNED A LOCOMOTIVE SPECIFICALLY TO CLEAN THE TRACK. IT IS LGB # 2067 AND IT DOES A GREAT JOB. LGB ALSO OFFERS A TRACK CLEANING ATTACHMENT THAT CAN BE INSTALLED ON THE BOTTOM OF ANY LGB TWIN AXLE CAR.

ARISTOCRAFT ALSO HAS A TRACK CLEANING CAR WITH AN ABRASIVE BLOCK. CENTERLINE PRODUCTS HAS A CLEANING CAR THAT UTILIZES A ROLLER THAT RIDES ON THE RAILS WHILE BEING RESTRAINED WITHIN A FRAME. THE FRICTION AGAINST THE FRAME CAUSES THE ROLLER TO DRAG SLIGHTLY ON THE RAILS THEREBY CLEANING THE RAILS.

A SMALL AMOUNT OF LPS-2 OR LPS-3 OIL APPLIED TO A SOFT CLOTH AND WIPED ON THE TOP OF THE RAILS WILL SLOW DOWN THE OXIDATION PROCESS AND HELP THE TRAINS RUN LONGER BETWEEN CLEANING. YOU COULD ALSO USE WALL CLIPPER OIL OUTDOORS FOR THE SAME PURPOSE.

THE OIL WILL BECOME SOMEWHAT GUMMY IN WET WEATHER OR IF USED TO EXCESS. USE THE OIL VERY SPARINGLY.

OF COURSE YOU CAN'T TAKE THE GARDEN OR TRACK ITSELF INSIDE TO MAINTAIN IT, HOWEVER IT WOULD BE BEST IF YOU SET ASIDE A CLEAN DRY WORK AREA INSIDE FOR TRAIN MAINTENANCE.

YOU CAN MAKE A SIMPLE CRADLE FROM THREE SHORT PIECES OF 2" X 8" LUMBER. NAIL THEM TOGETHER IN A "U" SHAPE, AND SUSPEND SOME HEAVY FABRIC OR OTHER MATERIAL TO ACT AS A HAMMOCK FOR YOUR LOCOMOTIVES AND CARS TO SIT IN WHILE YOU ARE WORKING ON THEM. YOU SHOULD ALSO HAVE A TRAY FOR ANY PARTS THAT YOU MAY REMOVE, THIS WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO FIND THEM WHEN IT IS TIME TO RE-ASSEMBLE THE LOCOMOTIVE. GOOD LIGHTING IS ALSO IMPORTANT, AS WELL AS HAVING THE PROPER TOOLS CLOSE AT HAND.

LOCOMOTIVES & ROLLING STOCK SHOULD BE CHECKED A LEAST EVERY EIGHT TO TEN HOURS OF OPERATION FOR DIRT OR OXIDATION BUILD UP ON THE WHEELS, AND FOR PROPER LUBRICATION.

THE LOCOMOTIVE WHEELS WILL NEED TO BE CLEANED OCCASIONALLY. YOU CAN USE A COTTON SWAB AND ALCOHOL FOR THAT PURPOSE, OR THE SAME BRIGHT BOY YOU USED ON THE TRACK, FOR THE REALLY STUBBORN DIRT OR OXIDATION.

THE LOCOMOTIVES NEED TO BE LUBRICATED OCCASIONALLY, BUT VERY SPARINGLY. IT WOULD BE BETTER NOT TO USE ANY OIL AT ALL THAN TO USE TOO MUCH. THE SAFEST WAY TO OIL A LOCOMOTIVE IS TO PUT A SMALL DROP OF OIL ON A PLATE, AND DIP A TOOTHPICK INTO THE OIL. THEN LIGHTLY TOUCH THE AREAS TO BE OILED WITH THE TOOTHPICK.

THE WHEELS AND AXLES OF YOUR ROLLING STOCK NEED TO BE CLEANED AND LUBRICATED JUST LIKE YOUR LOCOMOTIVES. THE PLASTIC WHEELS NEED TO BE KEPT CLEAN TO PREVENT THEM FROM SPREADING DIRT AND OXIDATION AROUND THE LAYOUT. THE WHEELS ARE EASILY CLEANED WITH A COTTON SWAB AND ALCOHOL. THE WHEELS CAN BE POPPED OUT OF THEIR TRUCKS SO THE ENDS OF THE AXLES CAN ALSO BE CLEANED WITH ALCOHOL. AFTER CLEANING, THE AXLES NEED TO BE LUBRICATED ONCE AGAIN WITH A VERY SMALL DROP OF PLASTIC COMPATIBLE OIL ON EACH END OF THE AXLE.

THE FOLLOWING CAUTIONS SHOULD BE OBSERVED WHEN LUBRICATING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE OR ROLLING STOCK:

USE ONLY PLASTIC COMPATIBLE OIL

DO NOT USE OIL ON OR NEAR THE MOTOR BRUSHES.

USE GEAR GREASE ON THE GEARS AND NOT OIL.

DO NOT GET OIL OR GREASE ON THE WHEELS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE OR ROLLING STOCK.

MAINTENANCE TOOLS AND OTHER ACCESSORIES

LGB TOOL SET #5002

LGB TRACK CLEANING BLOCK #5004

LGB MAINTENANCE OIL #5001/9

LGB GEAR LUBRICANT #5102

LGB SMOKE FLUID & CLEANER #5001

LGB ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVE PASTE #5101

LGB TRACK CLEANING UNIT #5005

WALTHERS BRIGHT BOY #949-521

ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER

ALCOHOL

COTTON SWABS

PIPE CLEANERS

NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS

A STIFF BRUSH FOR REMOVING DIRT

NOTE: DO NOT USE SANDPAPER, FILES OR A HOBBY KNIFE TO CLEAN THE TRACK OR LOCOMOTIVE WHEELS, THIS WILL CAUSE SCRATCHES WHICH WILL ACCELERATE THE BUILD UP OF DIRT AND OXIDATION.

MANY OF THESE TOPICS ARE DISCUSSED IN SEVERAL FINE BOOKS WHICH CAN BE PURCHASED FROM H & R TRAINS. A PARTIAL LIST FOLLOWS BELOW.

REFERENCE MATERIALS ON GARDEN RAILROADING

"LOOK WHAT'S GROWING IN THE GARDEN" (VIDEO - H&R TRAINS INC.)

"BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO THE LARGE SCALE MODEL RAILROADING "BY MARC HOROVITZ AND RUSS LARSON (GREENBURG BOOKS)

MODEL RAILROADING WITH LGB BY ROBERT SCHLEICHER (A GREENBURG BOOK)

THE LARGE-SCALE MODEL RAILROADING HANDBOOK BY ROBERT SCHLEICHER (A CHILTON BOOK)

LGB TRACK PLANNING AND TECHNICAL GUIDE BY ROBERT MUNZING (A ERNST PAUL LEHMANN PATENTWERK BOOK)

GARDEN RAILROADER MAGAZINE

FINE SCALE RAILROADER MAGAZINE

THE LGB TELEGRAM (BUFFINGTON PUBLISHING)